holiday

Labor Day Lemon & Herb Chicken Drumsticks

Sep 6 2010

I was a tiny bit afraid they'd gotten too dark, but they turned out perfect. If anything, we almost wanted them with a little more char.  

My Most Ambivalent Holiday

I was raised in a Union family. We checked clothing labels and only bought the ones that said “Made in the U.S.” We didn’t buy grapes because of César Chávez. Every year, my dad went to the Eugene V. Debs Memorial Kazoo Night where he watched a Tigers game from the bleachers and between innings, hummed “Solidarity Forever” in unison with bunch of other Union guys. He would bring home magnets that said “Stick it to capitalist tools” and sponges that said “Wipe up capitalist scum” and t-shirts emblazoned with a twist on Debs’ most famous quote:

While there is a lower class, I am in it, and 
while there is a criminal element I am of it, and 
while there is a soul in prison, I am not free, and
while there is a game in Tiger’s Stadium,
I am in the bleachers.

I stole this at some point in college because I just had to have it--a keychain is something you keep with you all the time, and I wanted one that would remind me of my dad

 I think he asked about it at some point and I pretended not to know where it had gone to. I wonder sometimes about whether that makes me a bad daughter...or a good one

My feelings about labor organization have gotten more complicated over the years. I’ve had to reckon with the fact that unions are fallible and that labor history is marred by strategic missteps and ugly bigotry. The current popularity of anti-union sentiment can’t be entirely attributed to Reaganomics and  right-wing campaigns—unions themselves bear at least some responsibility. However, that awareness—the idea that little-u unions can be wrong—seems to exist on a different spatio-temporal plane than my belief that the idea of Unions, or Unions qua Unions are good. That thought/feeling is deeper and also somehow before my ability to think about why unions make mistakes or the erosion of labor organization in the U.S. I guess it’s something like an article of faith.

That’s not to say I don’t have reasons for being pro-Union. I think all workers deserve a say in their conditions of employment. I think more egalitarian resource distribution is both morally and practically a good thing (for some of the same reasons that Robert Reich mentioned in his recent NYTimes op-ed). I believe that protections against some of the worst abuses of workers in the name of profit wouldn’t exist without labor organization, like the minimum wage and child labor laws. But ultimately, it’s impossible for me to separate those beliefs, which might be subjected to rational debate and supported or contested with evidence, from a more inchoate “Union = good” thought/feeling that precedes and undergirds them.

Ultimately, that faith eclipses my cynicism about how the holiday was only established to try to placate workers who were (justifiably) outraged about the fact that federal troops called in to put an end to the Pullman Strike had killed 13 workers and wounded 57. Or how the September date was set to distance it from International Worker’s Day, which commemorates the Haymarket Massacre and tends towards far more radical agitation and demonstration. Or how those injustices and the accomplishments of organized labor have largely slipped from our national memory. In many ways, Labor Day itself is a far better symbol of how unions are pacified and convinced to delay—often indefinitely—their pursuit of more radical demands than it is of the victories of organized labor.

I need bigger cages or stakes to tie them to. Also, I should probably check on them more than once a week.And then there’s the fact that it’s also the symbolic end of summer. The end of sundresses and afternoons when it’s too hot to do anything but take a nap near an open window and hope for the occasional breeze. The end of my annual half-hearted attempt to control a small tomato jungle. It is the official point when I can no longer pretend I’ll ever make up for the gap between everything I had intended to do and the summer that has actually eclipsed—with too few meandering walks, too little of my dissertation written, and far too few mint juleps.

Despite all of that, I love Labor Day for basically the same reason I love Thanksgiving and remain grudgingly fond of Memorial Day and the Fourth of July and, to a  lesser extent, Mother’s and Father’s Days. For one, they remind me to appreciate and celebrate things that I am truly grateful for. And moreover, my primary association with them has way less to do with the ostensible reasons for the holidays than it does with the way I celebrate them: by taking a day off work, getting together with friends and family, and eating some great food.

om nom nom nom nomRead more

Jell-O Jiggler Shots Part II: Star-spangled Photo-tutorial

Jul 4 2010

This is how you say "America, Fuck Yeah!" in Jell-O shots

For this year’s patriotic, alcoholic Jell-O Jigglers, I decided to cut stars out of the bottom layer of Jell-O, fill the holes with a white gelatin mixture, and then replace the stars on the top layer and pour white gelatin around them. So the top and bottom layers both have blue and white stars and they sandwich a layer of red. Here’s the bottom, before I inverted it:

it was actually a little prettier this way--I accidentally dissolved it a little too much in the process of unmolding.

By the numbers:

  • 2 small (3 oz) or 1 large (6 oz) box Berry Blue Jell-Othe lime Jell-O ended up in a separate pan, infused with limoncello
  • 2 small (3 oz) or 1 large (6 oz) box red Jell-O (I used Strawberry)
  • 8 packages (7 g each, about 2 oz total) plain gelatin
  • 14 oz. (1 can) sweetened condensed milk
  • 4 2/3 cups water (about 37 oz)
  • 2 2/3 cups vodka (about 21 oz or 630 ml)
  • 1 cup (8 oz) blue curacao
  • 1 cup (8 oz) raspberry pucker
  • 2/3 cup (5.3 oz) triple sec

That means it’s 11-12% alcohol or ~23 proof (107.3 oz total, 12.4 oz of which are alcohol—21 oz vodka @ 40% + 16 oz liqueur @ 15% + 5.3 oz liqueur @ 30%). So it’s roughly comparable to most wine or mixed drinks and approximately 18-27 servings of alcohol.

Layer #1: BLUE

Jell-O and gelatin combined like a blue, boozy reflecting pool: behold my kitchen shelves!

Whisk together the first color of Jell-O (6 oz.) with 2 packages of plain gelatin. Add 2 cups boiling water and stir to dissolve. Cool slightly (10-15 min) and add 1 cup vodka and 1 cup clear or matching liqueur up to 40-proof (I only had 2/3 cup blue curacao so I added a little of the red pucker, which gave it a slightly midnight hue, and some triple sec). Chill until set—at least 30 minutes.

If your refrigerator isn’t level—mine isn’t, you can stick flat things under the corners to try to get the Jell-O to set in an even layer. I used pieces of individually-wrapped American cheese. 

i know, it's "fake" cheese or "plastic" cheese or what have you; I still think it melts better than anything else I've found

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Happy Birthday America Jell-O Jiggler Shots

Jul 2 2010

grainy cameraphone pictures from a year ago, hooray! the red was strawberry + raspberry pucker and vodka, the blue was some kind of berry + blue curacao and vodka, the white had triple sec and vodka

Jell-O shots are often prepared in individual molds, which is handy for portion control and ease of consumption, but (obviously) requires that you have individual molds. You can, of course, make alcoholic Jell-O in one big sheet just like people generally do with non-alcoholic Jell-O, but the alcohol interferes with how the gelatin sets, which can make un-molded Jell-O shots a real mess to serve. If you really want to make alcoholic Jell-O that you can cut into pieces and serve as finger-food (or finger-drinks?), you need to add more gelatin.

I worked out ratios of Jell-O mix, plain gelatin, liquor, and liqueur last year for a 4th of July party, and now I don’t remember all the sources I consulted or factors I weighed. But I did record the recipe I settled on: 1 package of plain gelatin per 3 oz. Jell-O mix (a small box) combined with 1 cup boiling water, 1/2 cup liquor (80 proof) and 1/2 cup liqueur (40 proof). That yields a significantly higher-proof Jell-O shot than the traditional recipe, which calls for 5 oz. liquor per 3 oz. package, but it still sets up firmly enough to cut cleanly and eat with your hands.

blue curacao and vodka in the berry layers, limoncello and vodka in the lemon layers, triple sec and vodka in the condensed milk layers Flavor and design-wise, the possibilities are virtually endless. You can create the patriotic “stained glass” effect pictured above by making red and blue Jell-O in separate pans, chilling them well, cutting them into cubes and then pouring a mixture of sweetened condensed milk, gelatin, water, and alcohol over them (recipe below). That obviously also lends itself well to things like team colors or other holiday combinations.

You can create a layered effect by making small batches and letting each one set before you add the next one—a technique that lends itself well to rainbow pride shots. The Michigan-themed cubes on the right that look vaguely like expensive MOMA paperweights (ht: Ryan Hennessey) were created by alternating small batches of berry and lemon Jell-O with the sweetened condensed gelatin shot recipe in a 9x13 pan in 30 min. intervals. Other potentially-helpful tips: I made the mixture for each layer right after putting the previous one in the refrigerator so it could cool to room temp before I poured it on top, and I poured the new layers over the back of a spoon to soften their impact on the “set” layers.

If you had the time and inclination, you could make layers within “stained glass” pieces or cover “stained glass” pieces with different colored layers. But if that all seems like too much fuss, you can also just make single colors. And if you like, you can cut them into whimsical shapes. I’m going to make them again for a 4th of July picnic this year, although I haven’t decided what colors or styles, except that it will have to involve the seasonally-inappropriate box of lime that’s been in the cupboard for ages and the bottle of Raspberry Pucker we’ll never use for anything else. I may put pictures up after they’re done, but thought for once I’d try to post a holiday-appropriate recipe before the holiday in case any one else’s 4th of July might be enhanced by alcoholic gel-food. they do bend and wobble a bit, they're still just gelatin, but they will stay together well enough to transport them and you can leave them at room temp for hours without them melting into unappealing goo

Happy 4th of July to all who celebrate it. I wish you exactly as much grilled tube meat, sparkly exploding stuff, and patriotic kitsch as you desire (even if that’s none).Read more

NYE 2010 Part II: Admiral’s Punch and Festive Sweets

Feb 1 2010

cocktail in a bowl!

At past New Year’s Eve parties, we’ve mixed cocktails to order, and we never draw such a crowd that that’s a problem. However, I did find the Bon Appetit Foodist article about punch that would be less fizzy –spiked-pineapple-juice and more cocktail-in-a-bowl pretty compelling, both for ease of serving and because it enables you to make a drink that benefits from muddling and sitting and melding and chilling, all of which are either annoying or impossible to do on demand and to order. Also, I thought the recipe that called for little more than cognac, lemon juice, sugar, and sherry with a little nutmeg grated in sounded pretty delicious.

And it was. If I’d mixed three batches, it might…might have lasted until midnight. Of course, then we might all have been in too bad of shape to have any champagne.

As for sweets, I could have just relied on the candies I’d made for Christmas. Candies are useful for catering because they’re, by nature, practically non-perishable, sugar being a preservative and all. Additionally, they’re generally best served at room temperature, can be made weeks in advance, and rarely require flatware or cutlery. But candy just never seems totally satisfying as a dessert to me.

So the challenge was to find sweet fingerfoods that were elegant—most cookies don’t quite say “cocktail party” to me—but wouldn’t degrade too much sitting out for hours. I decided on a flourless chocolate-orange cake, cut into two-bite squares, and shortbread fingers filled with three different flavors of preserves. As a bonus for party-planning, both are best eaten the day after they’re made, so you can make them in advance, albeit not as far in advance as candy.

Flourless Chocolate-Orange Cake

instructions for candied orange zest curls also below

 Shortbread Fingers

these are strawberry-raspberry, blueberry on the plate behind, and out of sight my favorite: apricot-peach

Recipes and more pictures below. Read more

NYE 2010 Part I: Party Nibbles You Can Make Weeks in Advance

Jan 25 2010

Life, as usual, gets in the way of finishing all the half-completed entries on cholesterol, trans-fats, cherry-almond oatmeal muffins, butternut squash soup, pie crust with and without lard, how to make your own sourdough starter, etc. It’s folly to start yet another series of entries I’ll never get around to finishing, but I tried cramming all the things I made for New Year’s Eve into one post, and I just couldn’t do it. 

This is why.

Roughly clockwise from the upper left corner, that’s matzoh toffee, peppermint bark, spicy cheese straws, spiced nuts, goat cheese and fig jam crostini, smoked salmon rolls, more nuts and cheese straws, bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with chorizo, warm crab florentine dip with flatbread and sourdough, flourless chocolate-orange cake, shortbread bars with strawberry-raspberry, peach-apricot, and blueberry preserve fillings, more cheese straws and nuts.

There’s no way I could have made and served that many different things by myself if many of them couldn’t be made in advance. So that’s the theme of the first entry in the NYE 2010 series. These are all things that I made before Christmas. In most cases, I doubled or tripled the recipes and packed most of them into tins and boxes to give as gifts. But I set aside enough to put out on New Year’s Eve. In short, these are handy recipes to have, especially around the holidays.

More pictures and recipes below for Spiced Nuts, Matzoh Toffee, Peppermint Bark, and Spicy Cheese Straws. Read more